Ancient Grains for New Trends

All whole grains in the larger sense are “ancient” — they all can trace their roots back to the beginnings of time. However, the moniker started being used in the past decade in reference to grains that are largely unchanged over the last several hundred years. 

The Whole Grains Council thus makes a clear distinction between modern wheat (constantly bred and changed) and ancient grains, under which it lists einkorn, emmer/farro, Kamut, and spelt, all from the wheat family. “Heirloom varieties of other common grains — such as black barley, red and black rice, blue corn — might also be considered ancient grains. Other grains largely ignored until recently by Western palates (such as sorghum, teff, millet, quinoa, amaranth) would also be widely considered to be ancient grains. Sometimes less common grains, like buckwheat, or wild rice, are also included.”

According to Absolute Research, in a market analysis released in 2023, the global ancient grain market size was valued at USD58.6bn in 2022 and is expected to expand at a CAGR of 10.25% during the forecast period, reaching USD105.2bn by 2028. 

The Benefits of Ancient Grains

Ancient grains are more nutritious than refined grain products like white flour or rice. Many thrive with lower levels of pesticides, fertilizers, and irrigation, making them an attractive choice to consumers who choose to shop with their carbon footprint in mind. Each whole grain has something different to offer, making it impossible to play favorites. Also, many ancient grains, except for those from the wheat family, are gluten free and are suitable to use in bakery products aimed at consumers who have dietary restrictions.

The fact that they are not refined allows them to be higher in protein, omega-3 fatty acids, B vitamins, and zinc, which are usually stored in the bran that gets eliminated during the refining process. They’re also a good source of fiber. Other than the usual suspects — quinoa, chia, amaranth, sorghum — a few additional examples are farro, millet, black barley, and red rice.

Like other whole grains, they’re absorbed into the body more slowly because of their fiber content, which helps regulate spikes in blood sugar. This is particularly important for those with diabetes or other chronic conditions. These types of grains also aid in digestion and the production of certain fatty-acid binding proteins. Millet in particular is rich in magnesium, which strengthens bones, and sorghum helps to lower cholesterol and promote heart health. Teff offers calcium and barley is rich in soluble fiber.

Ancient Grains Flours and How to Incorporate Them in Baking

Flour company King Arthur Baking has been producing ancient grain flours for many years. Part of their Baking School vertical, they also test classical recipes with these alternative flours to help home and professional bakers find the right balance when mixing white wheat flour with ancient grains flours.

“Several ancient grains are versatile enough to substitute into many standard recipes,” says the company. “To find the best combinations, our test kitchen bakers took five of our most popular recipes and replaced a portion of the all-purpose flour with the flour from one of eight ancient grains. The results were delicious. Some recipes came alive with a complete substitution: 100% ancient grain, 0% all-purpose flour. Others worked best with a 50% or 25% substitution.”

Here’s their breakdown: 

Amaranth Flour

Amaranth flour is versatile, full of whole-grain nutrition, and enhances the flavor of many recipes. Naturally gluten-free, it contains all nine essential amino acids and lysine, a protein missing in most grains. Amaranth is a good source of iron, magnesium, and phosphorus. Its flavor is earthy and peppery. In small amounts, it makes the texture tender; in large – dense. Works best in pancakes and quick breads.

Barley Flour

Barley flour is exceptionally high in fiber and low in starch, making it one of the lowest glycemic index (GI) grains bakers can use. With three times the soluble fiber of oats, it’s a delicious, nutty-tasting way to add nutrition to baked goods. Its flavor is subtly sweet and nutty. It makes the texture moist if used in small quantities and crumbly in larger quantities. It works best in pancakes and quick breads although it’s not a gluten free flour.

Buckwheat Flour

Buckwheat flour is hearty, gluten-free, and a good source of magnesium, copper, and dietary fiber. It had a bold, toasty, and nutty flavor. It makes the baked goods moist and tender in small amounts and chalky in larger quantities. It works best in pancakes and quick breads.

Kamut Flour

Kamut flour, a good source of protein and dietary fiber, contains some gluten. Kamut, the commercial name for Khorasan wheat, is an ancient variety of durum, with a grain twice the size of modern-day wheat. Its flavor is rich and buttery. It makes the texture light and tender in small amounts and verging on crumbly in larger quantities. It works best in scones, quick breads, and muffins.

Millet Flour

You can read the rest of this article in the Winter issue of Asia Pacific Baker & Biscuit, which you can access by clicking here.